From Napa Vines to Arkansas Wines: The Complex Landscape of Black Wine in America

 Photo by Dazzmin Murray

Let me preface by saying that my expertise in wine is limited. However, after attending multiple Flyght Black educational programs — a company dedicated to celebrating Black-owned wineries brilliantly orchestrated by Kara Wilkins — I’ve realized the wine industry is far more intricate than I initially thought.

As I was thinking about what to write this week, this newfound awareness has spurred a deeper curiosity that has only intensified over the past months.

About two months ago, I was introduced to a delicious, low-cost wine. I was at a house party, enjoying some red wine so smooth I thought it must've been expensive or hard to find. Guess what? The host told me their secret: this bottle cost a mere $8 at Trader Joe's.

Fast-forward to my recent visit to Napa Valley, California. While exploring various storefront wineries, one establishment was eager to sell me a membership to their "wine club" to get their most affordable red blend that was only available for members to purchase. This membership would grant me access to wines delivered bi-monthly. However, when I mentioned I was from Arkansas, the atmosphere changed. Arkansas is one of a handful of states (Utah, Mississippi. Rhode Island, Delaware) prohibiting direct-to-consumer wine sales. They took pity on me and let me buy as much of the wine club's exclusive wine as I could fit in my luggage.

I left Napa with a trio of bottled treasures and a suitcase full of questions.

Why can't I find more black-owned wines in Arkansas? Why can't I subscribe to wine clubs? Why do we have dry counties? Who makes these rules? TDLR: Senate Bill SB32, along with regulations from the Arkansas Alcoholic Beverage Control Division and the Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration, significantly impact these issues. Additionally, the legacy of the Newberry Act of 1915 has left its mark. Now, let's dive a little deeper.

The world of American wine is the complicated intersection of craftsmanship, artistry, and entrepreneurship, and the contributions of Black Americans to this heritage have often been marginalized or outright ignored. Despite the rich history, the industry today paints a rather grim picture. Of approximately 8,000 wineries in the United States, less than 1% are Black-owned or employ Black winemakers.

The rise of Black-owned wineries is more than a matter of representation; it's also a matter of economic opportunity. The wine industry contributes billions to the U.S. economy. As Black-owned wineries gain prominence, they create jobs, contribute to economic growth, and empower communities. Brands like McBride Sisters Wine, the largest African-American-owned wine company in the U.S., and Mouton Noir Wines

are the only two black-owned wineries sold in Arkansas, exemplifying the possible economic impact and empowerment.

Empowerment does not come without challenge. Laws such as Senate Bill SB32 in Arkansas that restrict direct-to-consumer sales disproportionately impact small, often minority-owned wineries. Act 483 of 2013 in Arkansas allows some room for shipping wine, but the limitations are stringent. You are restricted to one case per quarter (36 bottles a year). Now, 36 bottles sound generous, but the wine must be purchased on the winery's premises each quarter. This, of course, is also riddled with conditions, including tax collection and specific shipping labels.

Here's where it gets ironic. Based in Bentonville, Arkansas, Walmart can deliver wine to 23 other states but not its home state due to existing laws. The retail giant has massively expanded its alcohol delivery services, catering to the rise in U.S. e-commerce sales. One can't help but question why a corporation headquartered in a state can deliver wine everywhere but its backyard.

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In this challenging yet promising landscape enters Flyght Black, a wine education program founded by Kara Wilkins. Flyght Black is not just another business; it's a movement to create a robust network for people of color interested in wine. Their wine education programs and events are pioneering spaces where inclusivity isn't just a buzzword but a business model.

The company highlights and collaborates with other Black-owned wineries, becoming a significant hub for budding Black entrepreneurs in the winemaking industry. What’s undeniable is that businesses like Flyght Black are setting the stage for what could be a renaissance for Black winemakers. It’s a story of turning challenges into opportunities, and it’s about time we all raise a glass to that. Click the Flyght Black link above to join their mailing list to be the first to know what's next for Flyght Black.

Listen to my podcast, embedded at the top of this blog, to hear all about Kara's pending wine club, immersion trips, and more!

Cheers, so you made it this far; you have to be wondering about this eight-dollar 2019 Fonbadet Bordeaux from Trader Joe's. Click the link to try a bottle for yourself. If this sparked your inner wine enthusiast, please bookmark Seth Barlow's Bottle Shots column for the Arkansas Democrat-Gazette.

Hyperlinked Resources:

• Insider. (2023, May 12). Walmart Adds Alcohol Delivery to Five States, Expanding Online Grocery.
• Arkansas Online. (2022, February 16). Black-Owned Wines Sold in Arkansas: A Short List.
• Wine Spectator. (2021, March 10). Arkansas House Passes Bill Allowing Direct Shipments of Wine.
• AR Money and Politics. (2023, February 25). Grocery Stores Wine Sales.
• Little Rock Soiree. (2023, March 8). Flyght Black Promotes Diversity Intentionality Through Wine Education and Events.